Rachel Hutton | Star Tribune (TNS)
Some of us from Minnesota were mispronouncing the name of Ojai as we planned our trip there. But by the time we arrived at Los Angeles International Airport, we had it right: “Oh, hi,” the name casually welcoming us to this charming town of 7,500, nestled in the shadow of the Topatopa mountains.
When we first saw downtown Ojai, it looked like a smaller version of nearby Santa Barbara, with its unique Southern California architecture. By our third night, we were really enjoying our vacation, with its mix of outdoor activities and comforts. We had gone on a hike, visited the upscale secondhand stores, and spent time at a winery. Now we were having dinner at Agave Maria Restaurant & Cantina, and we saw Jon Bernthal, also known as Mikey on “The Bear,” eating with friends.
Ojai’s relaxed wealth likely appeals to Hollywood stars because it's a mix of hippie and high-end. There are luxurious spas and fine dining, but no chain businesses are allowed. Ojai is laid-back enough to have a trolley as its public transit and an enchanting outdoor bookstore, Bart’s Books, where you can pay with coins after hours.
Ojai has always been known as a spiritual place, but I can't explain the “electromagnetic vortex” supposedly created by plate tectonics. We did see a lot of the town’s new-age vibe in action, such as a group drumming and chanting on the main plaza alongside a sign about reincarnation, meditation, yoga, and a plant-based diet. We also saw a flyer for group cuddles and a woman meditatively hugging a tree.
Horses and hiking
There are various types of accommodations in Ojai, from fancy resorts to vintage-glam hotels, rustic-chic inns, and upscale “trailer parks” with Airstreams for rent. Since we had a larger group, we chose an Airbnb on the edge of town, next to a working lumberyard, which made us realize Ojai was more rural than we had thought.
It's rural enough to have several ranches nearby. The next morning, Ojai Valley Trail Riding Co. gave us horses for an hour-long ride. The ranch owner, an experienced horsewoman, assured those of us who hadn’t ridden in years.
The landscape was rocky and green, with a river and mountains in the background. One particularly impressive natural feature was a dry riverbed with white boulders left behind after the water had changed its path.
Enjoying wine and food
The best part of our trip was being in nature — the next day, we went for a scenic walk just outside town — during our downtime, we focused on Ojai’s impressive food and wine scene. Our top breakfast (egg sandwiches, passion fruit pastries) was at the Dutchess, located in a historic building that used to be a bakery. I’d return for the restaurant’s Burmese dinner menu and drinks at the attractive wooden bar.
One night, we had a picnic-style meal at Ojai Rôtie’s outdoor patio (with heat lamps and blankets to ward off the post-sunset chill). The restaurant’s famous sourdough boules paired perfectly with a French/Mediterranean spread of roasted chicken, charred eggplant, hummus and salad.
We tried wine at two places, which we enjoyed for different reasons. At Ojai Vineyard’s charming downtown tasting room, we appreciated the personalized attention and wine knowledge. Old Creek Ranch and Winery was more expensive (including table reservation fees) and we were mostly left to fend for ourselves, but our sunny seats with a view of the grapevines proved to be a beautiful, comfortable spot to spend a few hours tasting flights.
On our last day, we stumbled upon a local treat we can’t get in Minnesota: a fresh batch of pixie tangerines at the Ojai farmers market. But we also felt a sense of déjà vu at Sanders & Sons Gelato, as we looked at the flavor options, listed on a creatively decorated chalkboard sign. Where had we seen that before? It turns out owner Sanders Marvin’s first high school job was at renowned Minneapolis scoop shop Sebastian Joe’s, which displays its menu in the same way.
I selected a citrusy Pink Moment sorbet, which made me realize we hadn’t managed to catch its namesake: the brief period that comes before an Ojai sunset, when the mountains take on a rosy hue. We also missed the local hot springs, which were closed due to a road washout. And we ran out of time to visit the nearby olive farm for an oil-tasting tour, or get a spa treatment, or go shopping, or hike the Los Padres National Forest.
We’ll have to greet Ojai again.
How to get there
Ojai, which got its name from the native Chumash word for moon, is located about 30 miles inland from Santa Barbara. Without traffic, it’s a little under a two-hour drive from LAX via the doublewide freeways. Or a little over two hours if you take the scenic Hwy. 1, along the ocean. (With traffic, it's unpredictable.)
On the coastal route, Paradise Cove Beach Cafe in Malibu is a great place to stop with a beachfront dining area as big as the portions. The place has a touristy feel — a group of nuns shared fried calamari served in a large martini glass. Its picture-perfect, cliff-lined beach has been the backdrop of many films and photo shoots, including “Beach Blanket Bingo” and the Beach Boys’ “Surfin’ Safari” album cover.
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