Rachel Hutton | Star Tribune (TNS)
Some of us from Minnesota were mispronouncing the name of Ojai as "O-jay" when we were planning our weekend trip there. But by the time we arrived at Los Angeles International Airport, we had it right: "Oh, hi," the name casually welcoming us to this charming town of 7,500, nestled in the shadow of the Topatopa mountains.
Our first impression of downtown Ojai was that it looks like a smaller version of nearby Santa Barbara, with its unique Southern California architecture of connected archways and terracotta tile. By our third night, the place was really appealing to us, with its mix of outdoor activities and comforts. We had gone on a hike, visited the upscale secondhand shops, and spent several hours on the sunny patio of a winery. Now we were enjoying plates of enchiladas at Agave Maria Restaurant & Cantina, when we saw Jon Bernthal, also known as Mikey on "The Bear," having dinner with friends.
Ojai’s laid-back wealth probably appeals to Hollywood stars being "Just like us!" — there’s a reason Sunset magazine calls it "L.A.’s Favorite Boho Getaway." The town feels like a mix of hippie and high-end. There are fancy spas and fine dining, but there's also a ban on chain businesses. Ojai is casual enough to have a trolley as public transit. And its charming outdoor bookstore, Bart’s Books, allows for after-hours purchases through a "throw coins in slot" policy.
Ojai has been known as a spiritual place for a long time, but I can't explain the "electromagnetic vortex" that's supposed to be created by plate tectonics. We did see plenty of the town’s new-age vibe in action, though. For example, a group drumming and chanting on the grassy main plaza next to a sign about reincarnation, meditation, yoga, and a plant-based diet. And a flyer posted on a sidewalk pole for people interested in group cuddles. And a woman near the co-op in a meditative pose, literally hugging a tree.
Horses and walking trails
The places to stay in Ojai range from a fancy resort (Ojai Valley Inn) to a vintage-glam hotel (Capri), to a rustic-chic Wes Anderson-style habitat (Ojai Rancho Inn), to an upscale "trailer park" with Airstreams for rent (Caravan Outpost). Because we had a larger group, we chose an Airbnb on the outskirts of town, next to a working lumberyard, which was our first hint that Ojai was more rural than we had thought.
The area is rural enough to have several ranches a short drive away. The next morning, Ojai Valley Trail Riding Co. provided us with horses (one of which had been ridden by singer Joe Jonas, according to our guide) for a one-hour ride through the Ventura River Valley Preserve. The ranch owner is an experienced horsewoman and confidently reassured those of us who hadn't been on a horse since middle school.
The landscape was rocky and green, with a river running through it and a backdrop of mountains. One particularly striking natural feature was a dry riverbed, lined with white boulders left behind after the water had carved a new path.
Enjoying wine and food
While enjoying time in nature was the best part of our trip — the next day, we went for a scenic walk just outside town — in between activities our focus was on Ojai’s fantastic food and wine scene. Our best morning meal (egg sandwiches, passion fruit pastries) was at the Dutchess, located in a historic building that was originally a bakery. I’d go back for the restaurant’s Burmese dinner menu and drinks at the attractive wooden bar.
One night, we had a picnic-style meal at Ojai Rôtie’s outdoor patio (with heat lamps and throw blankets to ward off the evening chill). The restaurant’s famous sourdough bread loaves paired perfectly with a French/Mediterranean spread of roasted chicken, charred eggplant, hummus, and salad.
We tried wine at two places, which we enjoyed for different reasons. At Ojai Vineyard’s cute downtown tasting room, we liked the personalized attention and wine expertise. Old Creek Ranch and Winery was more expensive (including table reservation fees) and we were mainly left to fend for ourselves, but our sunny seats overlooking the grapevines proved to be a beautiful, comfortable spot to spend a few hours tasting different types of wine.
On our last day, we were fortunate to find a local treat we can’t get in Minnesota: a fresh crop of pixie tangerines at the Ojai farmers market. But we also felt a sense of familiarity at Sanders & Sons Gelato, as we looked at the flavor options, listed on an artistically decorated chalkboard sign. Where had we seen that before? Turns out owner Sanders Marvin’s first high school job was at renowned Minneapolis scoop shop Sebastian Joe’s, which displays its menu in the same way.
I chose a citrusy Pink Moment sorbet, which made me realize we hadn’t managed to catch its namesake: the brief period that comes before an Ojai sunset, when the mountains take on a rosy hue. We also missed the local hot springs, which were closed due to a road washout. And we ran out of time to visit the nearby olive farm for an oil-tasting tour, or get a spa treatment, or go shopping, or hike the Los Padres National Forest.
We’ll have to say hi to Ojai again.
Traveling there
Ojai, which gets its name from the native Chumash word for moon, is located about 30 miles inland from Santa Barbara. Without traffic, it’s a little under a two-hour drive from LAX via the wide freeways. Or a little over two hours if you take the scenic Hwy. 1, along the ocean. (With traffic, all bets are off.)
On the coastal route, Paradise Cove Beach Cafe in Malibu is a great place to stop with a seaside dining area as big as the portions. The place has a touristy feel — a group of nuns shared fried calamari served in a huge martini glass. Its picture-perfect, cliff-lined beach has been the location for many films and photo shoots, including “Beach Blanket Bingo” and the Beach Boys’ “Surfin’ Safari” album cover.
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