Anne Z. Cooke | Tribune News Service (TNS)
In Fiji Islands, a passenger pointed out Tom Hanks’ island from the movie 'Cast Away' as we waited to board the morning ferry from Viti Levu, the largest of Fiji’s 330 islands
As we waited to board the morning ferry from Viti Levu, the largest of Fiji’s 330 islands, a college student in a red shirt pointed out Tom Hanks’ island from the movie 'Cast Away' on the horizon, mentioning it is called Modriki, is small, and has an amazing beach that tourists are eager to visit
The real name of the island is Modriki, and it is just 100 acres in size. The passenger mentioned the beach is fantastic and a popular destination for tourists
Fiji’s sandy beaches, palm-shaded gardens, starry nights, and Melanesian hospitality are highly appreciated by most South Pacific travelers. We have visited multiple beach resorts over the years and enjoyed most of them. In 2019, we decided to join a hiking group to explore the island’s mountains
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Fiji farmers say that horses are a more affordable mode of transportation than trucks when visiting neighbors
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Navala Village, Fiji’s last traditionally thatched village, is located an hour from the Fiji Orchid Hotel and is open to visitors
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At the Intercontinental Hotel & Resort, Fiji, families on vacation have the opportunity to make new friends while near the Toba Bar & Grill and the pool
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To spend a last-minute weekend on Lomani Island, take the one-hour ferry trip from Port Denerau
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The Nausori Highland Road, which climbs ancient lava slopes, provides insight into the origins of Fiji’s birth
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Adventurous travelers can participate in the International Hotel & Resort’s evening Torch Lighting Ceremony led by a Fijian warrior in the Fiji Islands
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Natadola Bay’s public beach, next to the Intercontinental Hotel & Resort, is considered one of Viti Levu’s top beaches
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Fiji’s farming families cultivate and sell vegetables year-round at Nadi’s Outdoor Market
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Last fall, when COVID was declining and Fiji was welcoming tourists, we took a plane back to the country for another exploration. Finding available hotels was a challenge, as Fiji is a popular destination for Australians, similar to how Hawaii is for Americans. Despite this, we managed to find five hotels with available rooms, three of which exceeded our expectations
The Fiji Orchid, a grand mansion near Viti Levu’s northwest shore and the former residence of Hollywood actor Raymond Burr, known for his role in the detective series “Perry Mason,” felt more like a home than a hotel with its cozy living room and collection of memorabilia. It was a welcoming sight after a long day of traveling
The Hotel Manager Deepika Dimlesh organized an authentic Fijian dinner, and co-owner Gordon Leewie shared stories about early Fiji life. Despite being just 20 minutes from Nadi (NAN-dee) International Airport, our room, one of six in the lush tropical garden, was remarkably peaceful
During dinner, Dimlesh mentioned that they had guests who stayed for weeks, including one individual who was writing a book. Most of their guests are international travelers and businessmen with layovers, who are encouraged to use the hotel amenities instead of trying to sleep in the lounge. The hotel offers pick-up services, access to the pool, dinner, accommodations, and a return ride to the airport
Interested in Lautoka, the second biggest town on the northwest coast of Viti Levu, we hired a tour guide and driver named Kesho Goundar, who speaks Fijian, English, and Hindi like many in Fiji. When we stopped at the large covered market, he bought a couple of kava sticks, which are traditional gifts for the chief if we visited a village.
Then we went to the Sabeto Mountains and visited the Garden of the Sleeping Giant. This popular park was established by Burr, an orchid collector from around the world. The main attraction of the visit is the hundreds of orchids planted along the trail to the summit, which is a large rock resembling a head. The nearby forest, with its towering vines, shady branches, and unusual flowers, looked like a movie set.
The next day, we went upcountry to Navala Village, the last thatched village in the country. We drove past barnyards, gardens, sugar cane fields, villages, occasional manufacturing plants, and primary schools affiliated with Methodist, Muslim, Sikh, Hindu, and Catholic faiths.
At first glance, Navala appeared empty, until guide Mark Navaroka came out to collect our $25 entrance fee and a kava stick for the chief.
Guide Mark Navaroka showed us inside the chief’s official house, explaining that it was built in 1954 when five Catholic villages that were dying joined together. He then led the way to the school and church.
We turned onto the Nausori Highland Road, not seeing another car, and drove uphill over a rocky, pot-holed track for over an hour. Each hill was steeper than the one before, until we reached the top, which was a delight for photographers. Finally, around the corner, we passed two hunters on horseback with rifles and dogs.
We moved to the southwest corner of Viti Levu and stayed at the Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa, a 35-acre beautifully landscaped property on Natadola Bay. Instead of salesmen in suits, the hotel was bustling like a country club on a holiday weekend. Fathers and kids played volleyball, mothers worked out at the fitness center, and we saw kids racing hermit crabs and learning Fijian words and Polynesian dances. The hotel’s restaurants offered continental and Fijian dishes, and our favorite, the lively Toba Bar & Grill, took our order in five minutes and served the food in 10.
We were convinced to try the Jet Ski experience and raced over the waves tandem with two watersports guides. However, the hotel’s Coral Planting project, led by marine scientists Lawaci Koroyawa and Luke Romatanababa, was more impressive. We joined them in the water and learned how to plant healthy corals onto damaged reefs.
The most memorable part was the river cruise with Singatoka River Safari. The wide and long river winds through an endless valley, passing rocky hills, farms, and meadows. Children played in it and men bathed their horses, waving to us as we passed by. It was peaceful and pastoral, like a nod to an older century.
The 35-mile-long trip ended at a village, with a tour, lunch at the community center, and a traditional kava ceremony with the chief and town leaders. Some people believe kava is calming, while others say it's just weak tea.
The hotel's desk clerk told us there are hundreds of villages in Fiji, and each indigenous Fijian family belongs to a village that owns the land it's on. This system is similar to a clan, and only indigenous Fijians can own land, making up nearly 90% of the country. While the government makes Fiji's laws, the villages rule themselves, which is why they are important.
As our last week approached, we took the ferry to Lomani Island Resort, an adults-only beach resort on Malolo Lailai island, which is just a one-hour ferry ride to the mainland and Nadi International Airport. It's possible to stay overnight and still make it to the airport on time.
What earned the gold star wasn't just the beach, but the charming cottages, each with a private yard and plunge pool. Additionally, the smiling waiters, creative chef-designed meals served at candle-lit tables, and the "double-X" swimming pool and water sports center were impressive.
The general manager, Shelley White, mentioned that the location is peaceful and quiet, but also busy with weddings, anniversaries, and recently even business retreats due to Nadi's proximity. Everything they need can be ordered and delivered the next day.
Shelley White expressed appreciation for visitors who know and appreciate the place, and hinted at the possibility of joining them on their next trip with a playful smile.
If you go
Fiji Airways offers flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Honolulu, featuring Fijian attendants, quality service, and including dinner, breakfast, and snacks. Departures leave just before midnight and arrive at 5:30 a.m. There are also flights from San Francisco and Honolulu.
Air New Zealand offers flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Honolulu.
American Airlines offers flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco.
United Airlines offers flights from Houston.
Delta Airlines offers flights from Los Angeles and Seattle.
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