Listen, baking a pie is challenging.
Alicia Hinze understands this well, and that's why she has a special fondness for pies. Hinze is the pastry chef and owner of The Buttered Tin, a morning eatery and bakery located in Lowertown and Northeast Minneapolis.
“They're demanding and require great attention to detail,” she explained. “Making a pie involves a lot of effort. Therefore, when someone makes a pie for you, it shows love. They must truly care about you.”
Despite this, pie doesn't always receive the recognition it deserves. It may seem like something your grandmother would make, not you. Additionally, the reputation of store-bought pies being subpar and overly sweet doesn't help.
Local pie experts argue that it doesn't have to be this way: A well-made pie can be artistic and expressive, telling stories of generations, and it deserves to be honored.
Author Rose McGee, who bakes pies to promote community healing through her organization Sweet Potato Comfort Pie, has also shared her recipe with public school cafeterias. At times, she drops by to converse with the children over a slice.
One year, McGee reminisced, “one little girl said, ‘No, I can’t eat this pie! I only eat my grandmama’s pie.’”
In celebration of Pi Day — March 14, or 3.14, the first digits of the mathematical constant — we reached out to various outstanding pie makers in St. Paul and the Twin Cities this year to guide us in creating enjoyable and successful pies at home.
How to achieve the flakiest, most crispy crust
Understanding your proportions: A good pie crust consists of roughly a 3-2-1 ratio of flour to butter to water. “That’s really all you need to remember to make a good pie crust,” stated Rachel Anderson, the owner of Vikings & Goddesses Pie Company located on Marshall and Cleveland avenues.
Employ frozen butter: “When it comes to pie crust, cold is your ally,” remarked Emily Lauer, the head of the pop-up bakery Fruit & Grain. Her trick involves freezing the butter and grating it with a cheese grater instead of using a traditional lamination process, which creates airy layers in pastries like croissants. Even if you choose a more conventional method, ensure that your butter remains in solid pieces rather than softening in the dough. “I enjoy rolling out the dough and seeing all of that chunky butter in the crust, knowing it will result in an incredibly flaky, golden goodness,” Hinze shared.
Invest in a scale: Many of us believe we know how to measure a cup of flour, but the truth is that weight is more precise than volume, Lauer explained. Purchase an inexpensive scale; there's no need to get anything fancy. “It'll not only enhance your baking in general but will certainly improve your pie crusts,” she assured.
Avoid using vodka: Some bakers advocate for using chilled vodka in their pie doughs to keep everything cold and prevent gluten production, which could toughen the crust. If this method works for you, that's great, mentioned Hinze, but she prefers using simple ice water instead. “The bubbles and flakiness are created by the fat and the flour, not the water or vodka, which just impedes gluten formation,” she clarified. “I don’t believe in that.”
Prepare the crust by baking it without filling. Some recipes suggest partially baking the crust before adding the filling, even if the pie will be baked again. This technique is worth doing all the time to create crispy edges and prevent raw, soggy bottoms. Anderson stressed the importance of this step, stating that it's a major red flag if not included in the recipe. Pie weights can be purchased to prevent the crust from puffing up, or you can simply use parchment paper and dried beans instead, according to Lauer.
How to create a perfect filling
Allow the main ingredients to stand out. McGee emphasized the importance of being able to taste the sweet potato in a sweet potato pie, rather than overpowering it with allspice and pumpkin pie spice blend. Similarly, Hinze advised not to go overboard with cinnamon and sugar in apple pies, as they should primarily taste like apples. McGee highlighted the significance of staying true to the pie's authenticity, stating that if it's labeled as a sweet potato pie, it should taste like one.
Thicken the fruit filling thoroughly. Fruit-based pies often require a thickening agent like cornstarch to avoid runny fillings. However, Anderson cautioned that if the pie is underbaked, the result will be grainy and unpleasant. She explained that undercooked cornstarch can be identified by its cloudier color and gritty texture.
Utilize the “pie gel” technique. Sarah Millfelt, who operates a Stillwater-based bakery subscription box called Milly’s Kitchen Madnessshares a trick for well-set cherry pies. After preparing the cherries with sugar, cornstarch, and lemon juice, strain them but keep the juices. Place the cherries in the crust, and simmer the liquid in a saucepan until it thickens. Then, pour the condensed cherry sauce back into the pie before baking to achieve a rich texture. According to Millfelt, this additional step may require more pots and pans to wash, but the results are impressive.
How to finish with strength
Crimp it: For hand pies or full-size double-crust pies, it's essential to have neatly crimped edges to prevent the filling from leaking. Anderson explained that a well-crimped edge is crucial for keeping the filling inside the pie.
Rein in your sweet cravings. Hinze expressed a preference for pies that are not overly sweet, stating, “I don’t want to bite into a pie and it’s a sugar bomb.” She suggested reducing the sugar in the filling when using a naturally sweeter crust, such as one made from graham crackers. Additionally, she advised against sprinkling sugar on top if the pie has two crusts — one on the bottom and another over the filling.
Practice, practice, practice: Pie is difficult, Hinze stated. Even when you follow the instructions step by step, taking the finished dessert out of the oven can still feel like a reality check. “You make it, put it in the oven, wait for hours, and think, ‘Oh no! It didn’t turn out. That's disappointing, that was half my day!” she said — but it’s valuable to attempt again.
